![]() ![]() You can also use the Set as Default feature on any of the platforms detailed here to make your equipment profile the default. Simply download the specific profiles you need and then select them when building your recipe. On the web version you can go to Profiles->Equipment and click on Manage Preloaded, and the mobile version has an Add-on button on the main menu. On the desktop, go to Profiles->Equipment and then click on the Equip Add-ons button to display and download various systems. The above are generic equipment profiles, but if you have a specific brewing system from one of the popular suppliers like Blichmann, Anvil, BrewZilla, Grainfather, Robobrew, SS Brewtech, etc…you can instead use the Add-ons feature in BeerSmith to download profiles specific to your system. Equipment Add-ons Available for Most Major Systems You can find these under Profiles->Equipment view in the desktop, web or mobile program. It also has common mead, wine and cider profiles. For example, BeerSmith comes pre-loaded with many common sized brewing systems for All-Grain, BIAB and Extract brewers. If you are starting with BeerSmith from scratch, my first recommendation is to try to use one of the pre-existing equipment profiles. I’ve composed many articles and videos over the years on equipment profiles, so I thought I would try to combine those links into one super-post. This is an important first step as the equipment you are using drives all of the critical recipe estimates like color, bitterness and original gravity. If I do a 90-minute boil, I end up with a small sparge step at the end to get enough volume through.Some of the most frequent questions I receive on BeerSmith software are about how to properly set up and dial in your equipment profile. ![]() My mash tun is also a 5-gal cooler and I can comfortably fit enough water between infusion and sparge to get a 20 liter batch (5.3 gal) with a 60-minute boil. If you can up your mash efficiency to use a bit less grain, you can make it fit pretty easily. This is where efficiency comes into play. This may still push the limits of your mash tun with your batch sparge, in which case you can choose to split it up into two sparge steps. If you measure out a gallon of water, put it into your mash tun and measure how much of that water you can drain out, the difference would be your mash tun dead space. The mash tun dead space is the volume which you cannot drain out of your mash tun at all. Since you are over volume by about 0.07 gal, and you want some room so that you can stir the grains in comfortably, I would recommend moving at least 0.25 gal from your mash into your sparge volume. Now you will need to adjust your water to make your first infusion volume fit to your mash tun. Since this profile is made around an average recipe, I do need to modify it within certain high gravity recipes to make sure it fits properly, but it suffices for the majority of what I brew up to 1.090 +/- a bit.įrom my experience when you add your sparge water and stir like crazy (which is good), you should also let it stand for at least 15 to 20 minutes to equalize the concentration of sugars inside the grain particles and in the water to get best extraction. This dot will turn red if you exceed the volume of the mash tun. On the mash tun tab, there is a calculation for volume with a dot beside it. Check to make sure that the total volume (dead space + grain + infusion water) does not exceed your mash tun volume. Open or start a new recipe and use that mash profile. BeerSmith calculated the rest as my sparge volume. ![]() I made a new mash profile (single infusion) and set the infusion volume to this number. This number is now the volume I needed to mash with. Now I took the number and added back in the volume for grain absorption and the volume of dead space in my mash tun. I took the pre-boil volume (= post mash collected volume), subtracted the volume for grain absorption from that and then divided the number by two (half for mash and half for sparge). So, I used an average recipe (in terms of grain wt) and looked at the water demand. His work comes to the conclusion that obtaining approximately equal runnings from both your initial infusion and from your sparge will get you the best efficiency from batch sparging. In my experience, Denny Conn's batch sparge method seemed to get me the most consistent efficiency (note that it may not be the best, but I'm not trying to get high efficiency I'm trying to get a consistent, repeatable process). ![]() What is the volume of your mash tun and pre-boil volume you need to collect? From this you can determine the steps needed. depending upon your mash tun volume, you might be able to get it down to a single stage. That is reasonable for a two-step sparge. ![]()
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